Winston Churchill and Pol Roger Champagne
A story best read with a glass of champagne in hand.
Although champagne (or sparkling wine) complements many foods, and is delicious on its own, most people reserve champagne for special occasions. I myself will enjoy a glass (or two) more frequently, whether before or during a meal, and appreciate the creamy and crisp qualities of a quality champagne. And then there are those who drink it far more frequently, as their regular “go to” wine.
Perhaps best known among the steady imbibers of quality champagne was none other than Winston Churchill, who was known to drink two bottles a day (!) throughout most of his adult life. No one is suggesting this high level of alcohol consumption, but if one were to drink that much champagne on a daily basis, then you might expect the choice to be parmi les meilleurs. And for Churchill, his “go to” wine was indeed among the best — Pol Roger.
Pol Roger has been produced in the town of Épernay in the Champagne region of France since the mid-1800s. Churchill’s love affair with Pol Roger began in 1908, the same year he married his other great love, Clementine, and lasted until his death in 1965 at the age of 90. And it appears in both instances, when Churchill fell in love, his love knew few bounds.
In 1908 alone, Churchill purchased over 100 bottles and over 80 half-bottles of Pol Roger 1895 vintage champagne, plus almost 50 half-bottles of the 1900 Pol Roger vintage, according to David Lough’s book “No More Champagne.” And for those impressed by Churchill’s ability to consume alcohol, Lough notes in the same year that Churchill also purchased: over 150 bottles of red and white wine; over 60 bottles of port; over 70 bottles of whiskey; 36 bottles of 20-year old brandy; 36 bottles of vermouth; and almost 50 bottles of gin! Other than internally, no mention is made of where Churchill stored his extensive purchases of grain and grape.
Although Churchill never visited the Pol Roger winery during his lifetime, he managed to meet a prominent member of the family, Odette Pol Roger, who was a volunteer for the French Resistance, at a party at the British Embassy in Paris in 1944. At that event, he was served Pol Roger 1928, which became his favorite vintage until he depleted it and then switched to the 1934 vintage. The friendship that developed at that event between Odette and Churchill would endure throughout his life. Notably, Odette would send Churchill a case of champagne each year on his birthday. And when Churchill passed away, Odette not only attended his funeral at St Paul’s Cathedral, but also insisted that certain Pol Roger bottles shipped to the UK bear a black border around the label in his honor.
In 1984, the Pol Roger winery released their prestige Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, which was crafted from the 1975 vintage. Unlike other Pol Roger champagnes, which contain a listed mix of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and/or Meunier grapes depending on the type, the blend used in the Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill remains a family secret. The Pol Roger family does note, however, that the unique champagne that bears his name embodies the same qualities prized by Churchill — namely robustness, maturity, and full-bodied character.
So, whether it’s Pol Roger or another favored producer of fine champagne, don’t wait for that special occasion to open a bottle. Indeed, opening a bottle may create the special occasion. As Churchill famously remarked about his daily consumption of champagne: “In success you deserve it and in defeat, you need it.” Cheers.
Danilo Diazgranados is an investor, collector, and lover of fine wines and a member of the prestigious Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, a fraternity of Burgundy wine enthusiasts.
