The beginner’s guide to sake.
Sake has been produced for over 1,000 years. So what is it about sake that still confuses even the most educated of wine lovers?
For starters, even though some refer to sake as “Japanese rice wine,” sake is not a type of wine. Sake is not made by fermenting sugars found in fruits (usually grapes), is not aged, and lacks the acidity found in most wine. As sake is brewed, it has more in common with beer. Unlike beer, however, sake is made using rice, water, yeast, and koji (a mold/fungus used as a fermentation starter). Sake also is not distilled and, therefore, different than whiskey, gin, vodka, tequila and other alcoholic beverages. And sake typically has an alcohol content of between 15% to 17%.
In making sake, the rice kernels are “polished” (milled) to remove the outer layer of grains, which contain proteins and oils, and expose the starchy core. Typically, the more the rice is polished, the better the sake. So if the label on a sake bottle indicates it has been polished to 50%, it means 50% of the exterior of the rice grain has been removed. (Likewise, if the label shows 70%, it means 30% has been removed).
One of the biggest questions is whether to drink sake warmed, chilled, or at room temperature. Although this is largely a matter of individual preference, the temperature at which sake is served does affect its taste. In general, the finer sakes are served and appreciated chilled (but not ice cold), and the lesser quality sakes may be served warm or at room temperature.
There are many types of sake. Among the more common that you may find at a restaurant, bar or market are: Junmai, Honjozo, Ginjo, and Daiginjo.
Junmai (which means “pure rice”) is polished to at least 70%, has a fuller body and a stronger, slightly acidic flavor. Junmai is best served warm or at room temperature.
Honjozo is similar to junmai in that the rice is polished to at least 70%. Honjozo, however, has a small amount of distilled alcohol added to draw out flavor and aroma.
Ginjo is premium sake, polished to at least 60%, and brewed using unique yeast and fermentation methods. Ginjo has a lighter fruity flavor, pleasant aroma and is typically served chilled.
Daiginjo is super premium sake (dai means “big”) that also relies on special brewing techniques and uses rice that has been polished down to at least 50%. Daiginjo has a light, complex flavor, pleasant aroma and is best served chilled. It is also among the priciest of sake.
Among the sake at the lower end of the quality and price scale, and less commonly found, is shiboritate. Shiboritate goes directly from brewing to bottling and is generally described as wild and fruity. There is also nigori. Nigori goes through a rough filtering and therefore appears cloudy white and creamy, with small pieces of rice kernels visible, and typically tastes sweet. And then there is futsushu, also known as “table sake,” which is barely polished, has a rougher taste and less pleasing aroma, and remains one of the quickest ways to get a hangover headache by drinking sake.
In terms of proper manners, it is customary in Japan, or when dining with a Japanese guest, to pour sake into your guest’s cup (called “o-choko” in Japanese) and not your own. You can expect your Japanese companions to ensure that your cup is refilled. And when in Japan, do not order “sake” at your local izakaya. Sake in Japanese refers to all alcoholic drinks, including beer, wine, whiskey, and so on. If you would like to order sake in Japan, ask for nihonshu.
And with this newly acquired knowledge, go out and sample different types of sake on your own or with a friend. Kanpai!
Danilo Diazgranados is an investor, collector, and lover of fine wines and a member of the prestigious Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, a fraternity of Burgundy wine enthusiasts.