Nikkei Cuisine: Where Japan Meets Peru
Coming from Latin America, you develop a unique appreciation for the way different people blend and influence one another. One of the greatest expressions of this confluence of cultures can be found in Nikkei cuisine.
“Nikkei” is a term that refers to the descendants of Japanese immigrants to other countries around the world. Nikkei cuisine, however, refers specifically to the influence of Japanese immigrants on food native to Peru. And while the descendants of Japanese immigrants account for only about 1% of the Peruvian population, their impact far exceeds their numbers.
Considering the distance between Peru and Japan, you might be asking when and why the Japanese first came. Peru actually was the first Latin American country to both establish diplomatic relations with Japan (in 1873) and accept and encourage Japanese immigration. Japanese began arriving in Peru at the turn of the 20th century to work as farmers on the plantations and then later settled in Peruvian cities, such as Lima.
Although by all accounts the Japanese immigrants to Peru became hardworking loyal citizens, American fears of a Japanese invasion in Peru during World War II (allegedly to be supported by the minority Japanese community) led to a political, military, and economic alliance between the US and Peru in 1942. In return for American assistance, the Peruvian government at the time agreed to track its Japanese citizens and later arrest and deport them to internment camps for Japanese set up in the United States. After the war, most of these Peruvian Japanese chose not to return to Peru and eventually became American citizens.
Despite their reduced numbers, those Japanese that returned or emigrated anew to Peru after the war had a significant positive impact on the Peruvian community. In celebrating their holidays and sharing their traditions, Japanese Peruvians developed a strong influence over the traditional foods prepared in Peru, which reflect the variety of terrain found there and includes coastline, mountains, and rainforests.
The Japanese introduced new ingredients to Peruvian cuisine, such as ginger, soy, miso, wasabi, and rice vinegar. They also incorporated Peruvian ingredients, such as Andes potatoes, tropical fish, local corn, cassava, lime, quinoa, and aji amarillo (Peruvian yellow chili pepper), into Japanese cuisine. Nikkei techniques also changed the way in which ceviche in Peru is prepared. Rather than marinate the local fish for hours, the Japanese taught Peruvians to “cook” the raw fish in citrus quickly just prior to serving.
Another staple of Nikkei cuisine is tiradito, which is raw fish cut not in cubes but sliced sashimi style and served with a spicy aji pepper sauce. Nikkei cuisine also has reinterpreted the traditional maki roll, which may incorporate local Peruvian ingredients such as Andean potatoes and “antichuchera sauce.” Tempura-style seafood is also indicative of the Nikkei influence over local dishes.
For over 30 years, Nobu Matsuhisa has helped expand the popularity of Nikkei cuisine outside Peru through his global string of award-winning Nobu restaurants. Today, there are many other restaurants around the world, such as Sen Sakana in Manhattan, Osk Peru in Bogota and Coya in London (to name a few), that celebrate Nikkei cuisine. Just don’t forget to order one or more chilled pisco sours to wash down this incredible fusion of Japanese and Peruvian culinary traditions. Salud!
Danilo Diazgranados is an investor, collector, and lover of fine wines and a member of the prestigious Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, a fraternity of Burgundy wine enthusiasts.
