It’s time for Las Vegas buffets to ante up
For nearly 80 years, restaurants and hotels on the strip have bet on buffets to bring in diners. Will COVID force them to fold for good?
When Nevada issued its first gaming license in 1931, nobody could imagine the bright, bustling playground that Las Vegas would evolve into.
Along with being a destination for gambling and shows, Las Vegas has also developed an alluring culinary scene. From swanky steakhouses to Italian eateries and gourmet rooms, Las Vegas had something for everyone. Even Anthony Bourdain enjoyed the meatballs at The Bootlegger Bistro.
In recent years, the strip has also become a haven for celebrity chefs, with restaurants from Gordon Ramsay, Giada De Laurentiis, Guy Fieri, and more.
But, if there is one signature dining experience that defines the Vegas dining scene its buffets.
One of the earliest Vegas buffets was the “chuckwagon” at The Wagon Wheel Tavern, which opened in the 1940s. The eatery relied on kitschy, cowboy themed advertising to bring weary gamblers through its doors. And while it only offered a modest spread (by today’s standards), a $1 all you can eat meal that was available 24/7 was hard to resist.
Since then, Vegas buffets have become an exercise in opulence, showcasing towers of shrimp cocktail, crab legs, and any meat that can be served via a carving station. For some, a night at a Las Vegas buffet is better than any pot that could be won at a poker table.
Unsurprisingly, Las Vegas as we know it was upended by the COVID-19 pandemic. And buffets — which hit many of the pandemic no-nos (indoor dining, lining up shoulder to shoulder with strangers, uncovered food) — were taken off the table.
But, on May 1, Nevada removed social distancing mandates and reopened nightclubs and buffets (at 80% with 3 feet of social distance). And, with cheap flights and hotel deals available, people started making their grand return to Sin City.
Of course, some things look a little different now.
For example, the Bacchanal Buffet in Caesars Palace, has taken a year off to undergo a $2.4 million revamp — enhancing its interiors and making it more accommodating to social distancing. The “crown jewel of Las Vegas buffets’’ now offers food served on roving carts, rather than requiring diners to queue to fill their plates. It is also introducing 30 new dishes.
However, not all buffets have bounced back. At least, not yet. Before the pandemic, there were 40 buffets operating in Las Vegas. As of now, only a handful are open. But, what is amazing is that only two are listed as being closed for good (RIP Circus and Corner Market buffets).
So, what will it look like when they do come back? Some may rely heavily on stations and servers, as opposed to long lines and sneeze guards. Others may take the Wicked Spoon approach, offering small plates to help keep lines moving. Or maybe an entirely new buffet concept will emerge.
No matter what, after this pandemic, Las Vegas buffets will have to make at least some small changes to accommodate the new “normal.” But, my money is on them coming back … and maybe better than ever.
Danilo Diazgranados is an investor, collector, and lover of fine wines and a member of the prestigious Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, a fraternity of Burgundy wine enthusiasts.
